It’s a good job that Tom had decided to randomly set an alarm for this morning, or goodness knows what time we would have woken up! A combination of the absolute silence around here, the darkness of our bedroom and the hectic 12 months we’ve had has meant that we’ve been sleeping like logs.
Today we headed to Noto, an interesting town about 50 minutes drive away. The place was destroyed by an earthquake in the late 1600s and completely rebuilt in the 18th century in the Renaissance style. We were again lucky with the parking, finding a spot just before the beautiful archway at the beginning of the main street, where all the tourist sights are.
At one of the first gelaterias, I noticed “prickly pear” granita on the menu, something we’d been searching for since Donatella (our guide in the Valley of the Temples) had said that this was the best way to eat the fruit. We shared one and discovered that she was absolutely right! The taste is sweet with a slight melon hint, and it works very well at icy temperatures!
We continued along the tourist route, enjoying the beautiful palazzi and the duomo, the style of all of which made you feel like you were in Paris rather than Sicily!
Our guide book had recommended a cafe which is famous for it’s granite. Having already devoured one just half an hour earlier, we decided to share again, this time choosing almond flavour. We also indulged in a chocolate filled connolo. The granita was quite frankly fabulous! It was like the sweetest, softest, lightest snow, flavoured with amaretto. Wow! The connolo (which is a local delicacy) was also scrummy, if very indulgent. We didn’t feel too guilty however, as we’ve been too warm to eat lunch most days (including today)!
We also found a lovely little shop, in which I bought a Sicilian bauble for our Christmas tree. Opposite here was a small side street decorated with what looked like small pieces of coloured glass.
Wandering a little further, we came across a temporary exhibition of 100 Andy Warhol paintings and decided to take a look. It was a fascinating exhibition, and different from anything else we’ve done all holiday, and we both very much enjoyed it.
For my family – do you remember me having a postcard of the picture below on my noticeboard at home? I think I maybe bought it in Paris?
Julia Morley – this last one is for you!
As we were already slightly south, we decided to visit the Vendicari Nature Reserve, with is about 10km east of Noto on the coast. First we had to squeeze the car out of the tiny space that it had become trapped in!
We found a car park surprisingly easily and, as lots of people seemed to be coming to and fro with beach gear, parked up and followed the path for a km or so to the sea. It wound past what looked like abandoned salt pans, with hides for bird watching, which would come in useful later…
The beaches looked very inviting, with crystal clear water, and there were some interesting ruins of buildings too.
From inland, a fierce sounding thunderstorm was rolling in, so Tom graciously sat with our things while I had a quick dip with my goggles and the underwater camera. I’m so glad I did, as the water was the clearest yet and there were sea urchins clinging to some of the rocks! The next few pictures are worth clicking on in order to see them full size (there’s no zoom on the underwater camera!).
Back on land, I scrambled back into dry clothes and we headed back towards the car, along with the rest of the mass exodus who were escaping the storm, which was gradually growing louder and louder, with bright forks of lightening flashing down to the ground not far away.
To start with, all seemed fine and we were hopeful that the worst of the weather was passing by inland. Then a few large drops of rain fell. Then came the downpour! And, wow, what a downpour! Within less than a minute, we were drenched to the skin and the path was rapidly becoming a stream! Tom’s quick thinking led us round the corner and into the shelter of the hides that we had explored earlier. It didn’t take long for the tempest to pass and for a rainbow to appear over the salt pans.
Back at the much emptier car park, I had to stop the traffic on the road so that Tom could get up the muddy hill in our little, low-powered (but much loved) Fiat, and straight onto the road (without stopping), or I don’t think we’d have ever escaped! Within a few miles, the sun was out again, the roof down and we enjoyed a beautiful drive back to the Igloos through the warm evening sunlight.
Blog up to date (for the first time all week!), Tom is just preparing a yummy smelling pasta dish and we’re about to tuck into some wine by the winemakers we visited in Marsala; we found a small selection of their products in one of the local supermarkets earlier in the week. The moon tonight is virtually full, particularly bright, and was almost red at sunset.
Tomorrow will be a combination of full on relaxation, with short intermissions of clothes washing and packing, but we intend to make the most of this stunning place before we are forced to hand it back on Saturday.
Recommendations:
Noto – just the main street (Corso Vittorio Emanuele – park at the eastern end and pay at the machine near the archway), but well worth a visit. While you’re there, be sure to try the grante at Cafe Sicilia (on the opposite side to the Duomo just a little further along).
The Vendicari Reserve – amazing, crystal clear waters and beautiful scenery.